If you have ever stood in front of a wall in your house holding a mirror and thought "can I actually hang this here?" you are not alone. It is one of the most common questions we get from customers, and for good reason.
Most homes in New Zealand are lined with plasterboard. GIB board, specifically. And while it looks solid enough, plasterboard on its own is not great at holding heavy things. It is essentially compressed gite and paper. Push a screw into it without support and over time it can crumble, crack, or just let go entirely.
That does not mean you cannot hang a mirror on it. You absolutely can. You just need to do it properly. And properly does not require a builder or expensive tools. It is a 20 minute job once you know what you are dealing with.
This guide covers everything. Wall types, weight limits, finding studs, which fixings to use, and a step by step walkthrough. We have written it specifically for New Zealand homes because the advice you find online is often from the US or UK where wall construction can be quite different.
First, understand what your wall is made of
Before you pick up a drill, it helps to know what is behind your wall. In most NZ homes built or renovated in the last 40 years, internal walls are made of timber framing lined with GIB plasterboard. The GIB sheets are typically 10mm or 13mm thick, and they are screwed or nailed to vertical timber studs.
Those studs are the key to everything. They are the strong part. The plasterboard between them is just a surface. If you can get a screw into a stud, you can hang almost anything. If you are only going into the plasterboard itself, you need to be more careful about weight and use the right fixings.
There are a few ways to figure out what is behind the spot you want to hang your mirror.
The knuckle test. Tap the wall with your knuckles and move sideways slowly. When the sound changes from hollow to solid, you are near a stud. It takes a bit of practice, but most people can pick up the difference after a few tries.
A stud finder. You can pick one up from Bunnings or Mitre 10 for around $20 to $40. The electronic ones are the most reliable. Just run it across the wall and it will beep or light up when it detects a stud. Worth having if you plan to hang a few things.
The magnet trick. A strong magnet (like a neodymium magnet) will be attracted to the screws or nails holding the GIB to the studs. Run it slowly across the wall and you will feel it pull slightly when it passes over a fixing. This tells you exactly where the stud is.
In most NZ homes, studs are spaced either 400mm or 600mm apart. So once you find one, you can measure across to find the next.
How much does your mirror weigh?
This matters more than most people think. A small decorative mirror might be 2 to 3kg. A full length mirror with a metal frame can be 8 to 15kg or more. A large window style mirror like our Le Beau (190 x 90cm) is a statement piece that needs solid support.
As a rough guide:
Under 5kg — You have plenty of options. Even basic plasterboard anchors or adhesive strips can work at this weight. A single well placed fixing into GIB is usually fine.
5kg to 10kg — This is where you want to be more deliberate. Use proper plasterboard anchors rated for the weight, or ideally get at least one fixing into a stud.
10kg to 20kg — You really want to be hitting studs at this weight. If studs are not in the right position, use heavy duty plasterboard anchors and spread the load across multiple fixing points.
Over 20kg — Studs only. Or consider whether a floor leaning option makes more sense for your space.
If you are not sure how much your mirror weighs, check the product listing or stand on bathroom scales holding the mirror, then subtract your own weight.
Choosing the right fixings
This is where most people get confused, because there are dozens of options in the fastener aisle at Bunnings. Here is what actually matters for mirrors on plasterboard in NZ.
If you can hit a stud: This is always the best option. Use a standard wood screw (8g, at least 40mm long) driven into the stud through the plasterboard. Leave the head poking out about 5mm so your mirror's bracket or wire can hook onto it. Simple, strong, and reliable.
If you cannot hit a stud — lighter mirrors (under 10kg):
Plasterboard anchors like the Ryset or Smooth Nylon Wall Anchors work well. They grip the plasterboard from behind when you screw into them. Available at Bunnings and Mitre 10, usually rated for 10 to 15kg each. Use two for a mirror.
The 3M CLAW plasterboard hangers are another solid option. They push directly into the GIB with no drilling needed and are rated up to 11kg or 20kg depending on the model. They leave a tiny hole when removed, which is good for renters.
If you cannot hit a stud — heavier mirrors (10kg to 20kg):
Toggle bolts (also called spring toggles) are your best bet. They open up behind the plasterboard and spread the load over a larger area. Available in various sizes and rated up to 20 to 45kg depending on the type. You will need to drill a hole wide enough for the folded toggle to pass through.
Ramset WallMate Super anchors are popular in NZ and rated for up to 20kg each. They screw directly into the plasterboard and grip firmly. Two of these will handle most full length mirrors comfortably.
What about adhesive strips or hooks? They can work for very light mirrors (under 5kg) on clean, smooth surfaces. But for anything heavier, we would not recommend relying on adhesive alone. Temperature changes and humidity can weaken the bond over time, and the last thing you want is a mirror on the floor at 3am.
Step by step: hanging your mirror
Here is the process we recommend. It works for most wall mounted mirrors.
1. Choose your spot. Think about height first. The centre of the mirror should generally be around eye level for the main person using it. For a full length mirror, that means the top of the mirror will be quite high on the wall. Use painter's tape or masking tape to mark the outline on the wall so you can see how it will look before committing.
2. Check for cables and pipes. Before drilling, make sure there are no electrical cables or water pipes behind where you plan to fix. As a general rule, do not drill directly above or below power points or light switches, because cables usually run vertically from those locations. If you have a cable detector, use it. If not, just be cautious and drill shallow first.
3. Find your studs. Use one of the methods above. Mark the stud locations with a pencil. If the studs line up with where you want the fixings, great. If not, you will need to use plasterboard anchors instead.
4. Mark your fixing points. Look at the back of your mirror. Most wall mounted mirrors have either D-rings, keyhole brackets, or a hanging wire. Measure the distance between the fixing points and transfer those measurements to the wall. Use a spirit level to make sure the marks are even. This step is worth taking slowly. A mirror that hangs crooked is surprisingly hard to ignore.
5. Install your fixings. If going into studs, drill a small pilot hole first (about 3mm), then drive your screw in, leaving 5 to 8mm of the head exposed. If using plasterboard anchors, follow the instructions on the packet. Most require a pre-drilled hole of a specific size. If using toggle bolts, you will need to thread the bolt through the mirror bracket first, then push the toggle through the wall.
6. Hang the mirror. Lift the mirror and hook it onto the fixings. Give it a gentle tug downward to make sure it is secure. Step back and check it is level. Adjust if needed.
7. Safety strap (optional but recommended for large mirrors). For mirrors over 10kg, especially in areas with foot traffic or in homes with children or pets, consider adding a safety strap or wire from the back of the mirror to a separate fixing point higher on the wall. This acts as a backup if the primary fixings ever fail.
A note on rental properties
If you are renting, you may not want to drill into walls at all. Many tenancy agreements allow small picture hooks but not larger holes. Check with your landlord first.
If drilling is not an option, a freestanding or floor leaning mirror is the way to go. Mirrors like the Svelte, Monarch, and Cascade are built to work as floor mirrors so you get the full length reflection without putting a single hole in the wall.
Our Rachelle Frameless Arched Mirror is a good example of a mirror that gives you both options. It works beautifully as a floor mirror leaned against the wall, but it can also be wall mounted safely if you decide to go that route later. That kind of flexibility is handy in a rental where your situation might change.
The 3M CLAW hangers mentioned earlier are also worth considering for rentals. They leave only a small pin-sized hole that is easy to fill when you move out.
What about our mirrors specifically?
Most of our wall mirrors come with mounting hardware included in the box. That typically means screws, brackets, and an instruction sheet. Some models also include keyhole brackets pre-installed on the back, which makes hanging straightforward once your wall fixings are in place.
Our Le Beau Arched Window Mirror (190 x 90cm) and the Le Vue Wall Mirror (120 x 100cm) are designed to work as either floor mirrors or wall mirrors. The Le Beau weighs around 22kg, so for wall mounting you will want to be going into studs. That is not optional at that weight. The PS frames are well made but 22kg on plasterboard alone is asking for trouble over time. Find your studs, use proper screws, and it will stay up for years.
For our full length mirrors that are floor or freestanding only (like the Monarch), wall mounting is not supported. These are designed to lean or stand with the included supports. Trying to wall mount a mirror that is not designed for it can be unsafe, even if the wall fixings are strong enough.
If you are ever unsure about which of our mirrors can be wall mounted, just check the product page or get in touch with us. We are happy to advise based on your wall type and mirror choice.
Common mistakes to avoid
Using a single fixing point for a heavy mirror. Always use at least two. It spreads the load and stops the mirror from swinging or tilting over time.
Skipping the level check. A mirror that is even slightly off level is one of those things you will notice every time you walk past it. Take 30 seconds to use a spirit level or the level app on your phone.
Using the wrong screw length. If you are going into a stud, the screw needs to penetrate at least 25 to 30mm into the timber (past the plasterboard). A 10mm GIB wall means you want at least a 40mm screw.
Over-tightening plasterboard anchors. Plasterboard is soft. If you keep turning the screw after the anchor is snug, you can strip the hole and the anchor will spin freely. Firm is enough. You do not need to crank it.
Ignoring the weight rating. Every fixing product has a rated weight capacity. Do not exceed it, even if "it seems fine." Plasterboard failures tend to happen slowly over weeks or months, not immediately.
When to call someone
Most mirror hanging is a straightforward DIY job. But there are situations where it makes sense to get a hand:
If the mirror is very heavy (over 20kg) and you cannot find studs in the right spots. If the wall has an unusual construction, like double layered GIB, concrete behind the plasterboard, or a cavity slider nearby. If you are not comfortable with drills or are unsure about cable locations. A handyman can usually hang a mirror in under an hour, and the peace of mind may be worth the cost.
Quick reference
Here is a summary to save or screenshot:
| Mirror weight | Best fixing method | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Under 5kg | Basic plasterboard anchors or 3M CLAW hangers | Most small decorative or wall mirrors |
| 5kg to 10kg | Plasterboard anchors (x2) or one stud screw | Medium wall mirrors |
| 10kg to 20kg | Toggle bolts, WallMate Supers, or stud screws | Full length wall mirrors, window mirrors |
| Over 20kg | Stud screws only (or use a floor mirror instead) | Very large or heavy framed mirrors |
Hanging a mirror on plasterboard in New Zealand is not complicated once you understand what you are working with. Find the studs if you can, use the right fixings for the weight, take your time with measurements, and check it is level before you step back.
And if drilling into walls is not your thing, there is no shame in going freestanding. Some of the best looking mirror setups we have seen from our customers are floor mirrors leaned casually against a wall. No holes, no stress, and you can move it whenever you feel like a change.
If you are looking for a mirror that suits your space, have a browse through our full mirror collection. And if you have any questions about installation or which mirror works for your wall type, just reach out. We are always happy to help.
